The saddle saga: stuck in the mud in Laos

We then spent an hour trying to discern which of the three tracks to take with each person we asked offering a different opinion.

Despite our monumental efforts we had to take a bus the final 200km out of China. We were disappointed having come so close but knew we could have done no more.

The Chinese side of the border was a grand new building in stark contrast to the shack that had been fashioned on the Laotian side.

We laughed at the simplicity of a “visa on arrival” in Laos compared to the trials of obtaining prior visas. Southeast Asia would surely provide fewer bureaucratic obstacles but I would miss China and all its challenges.

Our race had not yet concluded. We had to meet friends in Chiang Mai, northern Thailand and still had 300 miles to cycle in four days.

Laos instantly felt different to China: huts replaced houses, traffic calmed, there was no litter and children ran after us waving, smiling and calling out “bye”. One thing did remain constant; the roads were built by the Chinese to ensure good overland links with Thailand.

We cycled through Nam Ha national park where tigers, leopards and elephants roam freely. None were spotted to both our relief and disappointment.

In the middle of this dense forest on a scorching hot day we happened upon a Laotian wedding in full swing. We were invited in and plied with an array of booze that would have taken down an elephant. We were then ushered into the centre of the dance floor and each paired up with a young woman. The crowd of people then slowly danced round in a circle to reggae music.

After a few hours we continued onward as the monsoon rains began to fall. We cycled until nightfall when we set up camp in a disused market under a large roof. Our slumber was only broken at dawn when cows and oxen wandered through the market past our makeshift beds.

Later that day we arrived in Thailand crossing the Mekong by boat. Another two days of frantic cycling and we reached Chiang Mai where, mission accomplished; we were in time to celebrate my birthday with friends.

• See Telegraph Travel next week for the next update

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